Did you know why people say "Healthy as a Cornelian cherry"? It is not an ordinary fruit from which jam or tea is made.
Once upon a time, our ancestors planted Cornelian cherry in front of the house, in order to keep it healthy for generations and thus it could live for 200 years.
Today, Cornelian cherry is mostly a wild plant, and in rare cases it is cultivated, which gives it an even greater medicinal value.
Why is Cornelian cherry in demand in cosmetic preparations?
Cosmetic manufacturers are looking for multifunctional cosmetic ingredients, primarily of natural origin, such as plant extracts.
Their complex chemical compositions make this possible, because it is possible to make cosmetics that provide multiple effects using only one ingredient (moisturizing, soothing, nourishing).
Several studies have shown that extracts obtained from the fruit of Cornelian cherry show a strong antioxidant, antibacterial, toning, tightening and anti-inflammatory effect.
These properties can be attributed to phenolic compounds, vitamin C, iridoids, flavonoids, and especially anthocyanins.
What are antioxidants?
Antioxidants are actually molecules that fight against free radicals.
In the chemical sense, these are molecules that are electron acceptors, and they take these electrons from unstable free radicals, neutralizing their negative effect.
Free radicals lead to oxidation of molecules and oxidative stress. In this way, cells and tissues are damaged.
Why maintaining collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid is important
From the age of 20, the skin begins to produce less and less collagen. The skin then becomes thinner and more fragile. The same happens with elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Collagen makes up about 40% of the total proteins in the human body and is part of the connective tissue. It is found in bones, muscles, tendons, skin and forms a stable structure. It is responsible for the condition of the skin, as well as the appearance of hair and nails.
Elastin is a component of the extracellular matrix. In addition to stability, elasticity is also very important for many tissues and organs.
Hyaluronic acid surrounds the cells and binds water, and by reducing its concentration, the skin becomes dry and dehydrated.
By disrupting these structures, the skin loses its firmness, relaxes and deepens wrinkles.
How vitamin C affects maintaining the beauty of the skin
It has been scientifically proven that Cornelian cherry contains twice as much vitamin C as oranges.
Vitamin C is one of the strongest water-soluble antioxidants. It is equally effective against UVA and UVB radiation. UVA mutates and destroys collagen, elastin, proteoglycans and other dermal cellular structures..
Vitamin C does not absorb UV radiation, but neutralizes free radicals produced as a result of radiation.
Although vitamin C can provide photoprotection, it is best combined with vitamin E, which increases the action of vitamin C 4 times. It is also very important for collagen synthesis.
Inhibition of enzymes that break down dermal structures
Research has shown that Cornelian cherry extracts have a strong antioxidant effect and inhibit the enzymes elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase, which are responsible for the breakdown of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Inhibition of the breakdown of these compounds contributes greatly to the aging process.
Removal of hyperpigmentation and even complexion
The skin of young people is more nourished and whiter than the skin of the old. During aging, the skin becomes rougher, wrinkled and darker and age spots appear.
Aging increases the activity of enzymes that remove free radicals, but their concentration decreases. The concentration of total antioxidants also drops.
Proanthocyanidins are good antioxidants, and they also promote covalent cross-linking of collagen, prevent the breakdown of elastin by inhibiting the enzyme elastase. They reduce excessive aging and sagging of the skin and reduce the secretion of sebaceous glands.
They can also reduce the O-Benzoquinone structure of melanin and convert it into a phenolic structure, which will fade the pigment and inhibit a key enzyme in melanin synthesis (tyrosinase) - which will reduce the production of age spots.
Vitamin C interacts with copper ions in the active site of tyrosinase, thereby reducing the production of melanin.
Fight against acne, pimples and enlarged pores
Polyphenols have been found to have an antiphlogistic and antibacterial effect that is extremely important during the fight against acne, as well as a mild (2-12 SPF) and medium (12-30 SPF) UV filtering effect.
Proanthocyanins can combine with proteins to form hydrophobic and hydrogen bonds, which can shrink pores and tighten skin.
They have an effect on inflammatory processes on the skin, hydrate the skin and have an anti-aging effect.
Maintenance of cellular structures
Proanthocyanidins can absorb UV radiation and inhibit lipid peroxidation. Peroxidation of lipids leads to damage of cell membranes, changes the function of proteins, such as enzymes and receptors, bound to the membrane.
Such damage can lead to a loss of cellular structure and the ability of cells to regenerate is reduced.
Lipid peroxidation occurs in the presence of free radicals, created as a result of radiation or from any other source that can lead to their creation.
Minerals present in Cornelian cherry fruit
Cornelian cherry fruit is rich in trace elements such as copper, zinc and manganese.
It is also a source of potassium and contains as much as 3500 mg/100 g of fresh fruit, which means that 1 g of Cornelian Cherry includes the full daily intake of potassium as recommended by the World Health Organization.
Cornelian Cherry juice is also rich in calcium 32 mg/100mL and iron.
Minerals reduce skin photoaging
Minerals such as copper, zinc and selenium are very important for maintaining skin health.
Zinc is a major co-factor for most metalloenzymes. It has a role in preventing skin photodamage, preventing the penetration of UV light through the skin. It is mainly used in natural cosmetics as a mineral filter.
Co-treatment with zinc and vitamin C is shown to be very effective in suppressing acne, as it exhibits a strong antimicrobial effect.
Copper stimulates the maturation of collagen, which is very important in preserving the elasticity and firmness of the skin.
Fatty acids in Cornelian cherry seed oil
In addition to all these wonderful molecules that are mostly found in the fruit of the Cornelian cherry, inside the stone there is a seed extremely rich in essential fatty acids.
The oil obtained by cold pressing contains as much as 65% of essential fatty acid (linoleic acid), which is more compared to wild rose oil.
How fatty acids nourish the skin
After applying the oils to the skin, their effect is manifested differently depending on the possibility of penetration into the deeper layers of the skin.
On the surface of the skin, the oil forms a hydrophobic film that reduces transepidermal water loss. Oils applied to the skin interact with the hydrolipidic barrier and are gradually absorbed by the skin.
Depending on the composition of the oil, it can increase or decrease the absorption of other active components.
Some oil components can be incorporated into lipids, while others participate in the synthesis of structural elements of the skin.
The most common fatty acids present in vegetable oils are saturated (palmitic C18:0 and stearic C18:0) and monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic C18:1 and linoleic C18:2).
The most interesting are the essential fatty acids, which are not synthesized in the body, but must be ingested (linoleic, alpha linoleic and gamma linoleic acids).
These fatty acids are the starting material in the synthesis of prostaglandins, which are responsible for the regulation of inflammatory processes on the skin.
Oleic acid activates lipid metabolism, restoring the protective function of the epidermis and keeping the skin moist.
It is well absorbed by the skin and increases the absorption of other active components.
